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src=\"\/dianzibao\/images\/banmian_logo.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"dzb-banmian-logo\" width=\"120\" height=\"39\">\r\n <\/div>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-banmian-title\">第12版：夜光杯<\/span>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-banmian-date\">2026-09-14<\/span>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-desc-box dzb-enter-heng-desc-box\">\r\n <span class=\"dzb-special-title-box\"><\/span>\r\n <h2 class=\"dzb-title-box\">阆中牛肉面<\/h2>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-sub-title-box\"><\/span>\r\n \r\n <p class=\"dzb-desc-box\"> 王干<br\/><br\/> 古城多美食，阆中也不例外。<br\/><br\/> 阆中是全国保存最为完好的四大古城之一，我因为中国作协的工作，到阆中的城乡住了几天。最早吃到的是张飞牛肉，我称赞不已，可陪我的老鑫说，最好的还是牛肉面。老鑫是小城美食家，年龄不大，应该称为小鑫，因为对古城文化的熟悉和美食的品位，我们自然叫他老鑫。“别的都可以不吃，张飞牛肉也可以不买，但明天早上，必须跟我吃一碗牛肉面。”<br\/><br\/> 他说的话我将信将疑，但他说话时眼睛发亮，仿佛那碗面是他自家酿的酒。<br\/><br\/> 第二天早晨，我还没有起床，老鑫来了，说，晚了，料就没有了。我跟着他，来到一家不起眼的小店，藏在一条名叫“礼拜寺街”的巷子里。还没见着店面，先见着了人。队伍排出去十几米，多是些熟客，穿着大裤衩，趿着拖鞋，彼此也不大搭话，就那么安静地站着，或是跟老板隔空点个头。这情形，倒让我想起江南的茶客，耐心，笃定，知道好东西值得等。<br\/><br\/> 老鑫之前有预约，不用排队，径直走到灶台前。掌勺的是个四十来岁的中年汉子，天气炎热，光着膀子，围裙上沾着新鲜的油渍，见老鑫来了，眼皮都没抬，只问了一句：“老样子？”老鑫点点头：“嗯，多放点芫荽，少搁蒜。”那汉子嘴角似乎牵动了一下，算是应了。<br\/><br\/> 我站在一旁看，这牛肉面的做法，真是有些意思。它凉面热吃，淡中见浓，各家各味。<br\/><br\/> 先说这面。锅里的面捞起来，居然要先过一道凉水！滚水锅里煮得断生，筷子一挑，直接丢进旁边一盆清凉的井水里，激一下，再迅速捞起，沥净水，盛进碗里。这叫“凉面热吃”。面条是碱水面，略粗，经过这一冷一热的折腾，变得格外筋道，有嚼头，不像南方的阳春面那般绵软。<br\/><br\/> 再说这浇头。牛肉是前一天下午就开始熬的。一大锅，牛骨垫底，铺上大块的牛肉，加上几十种香料，文火慢炖几个时辰。到第二天清晨，汤色已经浓得像牛奶，上面浮着一层红亮的辣油和碧绿的葱花。给客人盛面时，舀一大勺滚烫的卤汁，“刺啦”一声浇在面上，热气腾腾，香气瞬间炸开。这牛肉炖得极烂，入口即化，连筋带皮的部分，都酥糯得不行。<br\/><br\/> 最妙的，是最后的拌料。这可讲究了。每家店都有自己的秘方，而每个老板，又都记着熟客的口味。有的爱香菜，有的恨芹菜，有的无蒜不欢，有的见葱就恼。他们之间有一种默契，一个眼神，一句“老样子”，老板手下便有了分寸。老鑫的那碗面，老板撒芫荽时手抖得格外大方，蒜泥却只点了指甲盖那么大一点。端到我面前时，那碗面，绿是绿，红是红，白是白，看着就让人心里安稳。<br\/><br\/> 我尝了一口，味道实在丰富。这汤，竟有几分河南胡辣汤的风致，稠厚，麻辣，味道醇正，一点没有清汤寡水的意思。而拌面的手法，又有点像武汉的热干面，要把每一根面条都均匀地裹上调料和汤汁，拌匀了，让味道吃进面里去。一口下去，先是汤的浓香，紧接着是面条的韧劲，再细细咀嚼，又能品出牛肉的鲜甜和蔬菜的清香。各种味道在嘴里打架，最后又奇妙地融合在一起，熨帖得五脏六腑都舒坦了。<br\/><br\/> 老鑫一边呼噜呼噜地吃，一边跟我絮叨：“你看，咱们阆中这地方，地处川北，挨着陕西，靠着甘肃，自古就是水陆要冲，南北客商来来往往，口味也就杂了。这牛肉面，就是南北交融的产物。汤是北方的浓汤路子，面是南方的精细讲究，调料又是四川本地的鲜香。你说它像什么？谁也说不清。但它就是好吃得紧。”<br\/><br\/> 我点点头，心里也明白了几分。饮食，终究是文化的影子。阆中这座古城，三面环水，一面靠山，风水好，历史也厚。三国时的张飞曾在此镇守七年，留下了许多传说；后来历朝历代，又有各色人等在此定居。各种文化在这里沉淀、发酵，最后都浓缩到了这碗市井的面条里。它不张扬，不精致，甚至有些粗犷，但有那种混杂的、厚实的、充满生活气息的味道。<br\/><br\/> 吃完一碗，额头上渗出细密的汗，浑身暖洋洋的。我看着店里那些埋头吃面的人，他们大多是本地人，脸上带着一种满足的神情，仿佛这一天的开始，有了这碗面，就有了底气。老鑫说，那些外出的游子，无论是打工的，还是上学的，在外经商的，回到家乡的第一件事就是先来碗牛肉面。只要闻到这个味儿，魂儿就回来了。<br\/><br\/> 离开时，车子驶离古城，嘉陵江渐渐远去。我摇下车窗，晨风带着水汽吹进来，我忽然又回味起那碗牛肉面的滋味。那滋味，让我想起古城里那些明清时期的木质建筑，想起贡院里莘莘学子的足迹，想起锦屏山上苍翠的松柏，想起华光楼上远眺的落日余晖……所有这些，似乎都被那碗其貌不扬的面条给收拢了，浓缩了。那是一种混合着历史、地理和人情的味道，对于懂它的人来说，记挂这一碗，便是怀抱故乡。<br\/><br\/><\/p>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <\/div>\r\n \r\n <div class=\"dzb-multi-btn-box\">\r\n <p class=\"dzb-multi-zoomOut dzb-multi-btn-hover\"><a href=\"javascript:;\"><img src=\"\/dianzibao\/images\/btn_A.png\"\n\n alt=\"\">放大<\/a><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"dzb-multi-zoomIn dzb-multi-btn-hover hide\"><a href=\"javascript:;\"><img 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class=\"gg-ding\">\n\n\n<\/div>\n\n<header>\n\n <div class=\"dzb-header-wrap\">\n\n <div class=\"dzb-date-wrap\">2026年09月16日星期三<\/div>\n\n \n\n \n <a href=\"\/\/www.xinmin.cn\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" class=\"back_home\"><\/a>\n \n\n <\/div>\n\n<\/header>\n\r\n\r\n<div class=\"dzb-enter-box dzb-enter-heng-box\">\r\n \r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-nav-box\">\r\n <ul>\r\n \r\n <li class=\"dzb-enter-nav-li active\">\r\n <a href=\"javascript:;\">本版<\/a>\r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-nav-wrap dzb-enter-nav-benban-wrap hide\">\r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-opacity-box\"><\/div>\r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-wrap dzb-enter-benban-wrap\">\r\n <h2>第12版：夜光杯<\/h2>\r\n <div>\r\n <a href=\"\/html\/xmwb\/2026-09-14\/12\/247739.html\" title=\"上善若水（篆刻）\">上善若水（篆刻）<\/a>\r\n <a href=\"\/html\/xmwb\/2026-09-14\/12\/247741.html\" title=\"秋来十里村\">秋来十里村<\/a>\r\n <a href=\"\/html\/xmwb\/2026-09-14\/12\/247738.html\" title=\"家里中堂何处寻\">家里中堂何处寻<\/a>\r\n <a 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src=\"\/dianzibao\/images\/banmian_logo.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"dzb-banmian-logo\" width=\"120\" height=\"39\">\r\n <\/div>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-banmian-title\">第12版：夜光杯<\/span>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-banmian-date\">2026-09-14<\/span>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <div class=\"dzb-enter-desc-box dzb-enter-heng-desc-box\">\r\n <span class=\"dzb-special-title-box\"><\/span>\r\n <h2 class=\"dzb-title-box\">阆中牛肉面<\/h2>\r\n <span class=\"dzb-sub-title-box\"><\/span>\r\n \r\n <p class=\"dzb-desc-box\"> 王干<br\/><br\/> 古城多美食，阆中也不例外。<br\/><br\/> 阆中是全国保存最为完好的四大古城之一，我因为中国作协的工作，到阆中的城乡住了几天。最早吃到的是张飞牛肉，我称赞不已，可陪我的老鑫说，最好的还是牛肉面。老鑫是小城美食家，年龄不大，应该称为小鑫，因为对古城文化的熟悉和美食的品位，我们自然叫他老鑫。“别的都可以不吃，张飞牛肉也可以不买，但明天早上，必须跟我吃一碗牛肉面。”<br\/><br\/> 他说的话我将信将疑，但他说话时眼睛发亮，仿佛那碗面是他自家酿的酒。<br\/><br\/> 第二天早晨，我还没有起床，老鑫来了，说，晚了，料就没有了。我跟着他，来到一家不起眼的小店，藏在一条名叫“礼拜寺街”的巷子里。还没见着店面，先见着了人。队伍排出去十几米，多是些熟客，穿着大裤衩，趿着拖鞋，彼此也不大搭话，就那么安静地站着，或是跟老板隔空点个头。这情形，倒让我想起江南的茶客，耐心，笃定，知道好东西值得等。<br\/><br\/> 老鑫之前有预约，不用排队，径直走到灶台前。掌勺的是个四十来岁的中年汉子，天气炎热，光着膀子，围裙上沾着新鲜的油渍，见老鑫来了，眼皮都没抬，只问了一句：“老样子？”老鑫点点头：“嗯，多放点芫荽，少搁蒜。”那汉子嘴角似乎牵动了一下，算是应了。<br\/><br\/> 我站在一旁看，这牛肉面的做法，真是有些意思。它凉面热吃，淡中见浓，各家各味。<br\/><br\/> 先说这面。锅里的面捞起来，居然要先过一道凉水！滚水锅里煮得断生，筷子一挑，直接丢进旁边一盆清凉的井水里，激一下，再迅速捞起，沥净水，盛进碗里。这叫“凉面热吃”。面条是碱水面，略粗，经过这一冷一热的折腾，变得格外筋道，有嚼头，不像南方的阳春面那般绵软。<br\/><br\/> 再说这浇头。牛肉是前一天下午就开始熬的。一大锅，牛骨垫底，铺上大块的牛肉，加上几十种香料，文火慢炖几个时辰。到第二天清晨，汤色已经浓得像牛奶，上面浮着一层红亮的辣油和碧绿的葱花。给客人盛面时，舀一大勺滚烫的卤汁，“刺啦”一声浇在面上，热气腾腾，香气瞬间炸开。这牛肉炖得极烂，入口即化，连筋带皮的部分，都酥糯得不行。<br\/><br\/> 最妙的，是最后的拌料。这可讲究了。每家店都有自己的秘方，而每个老板，又都记着熟客的口味。有的爱香菜，有的恨芹菜，有的无蒜不欢，有的见葱就恼。他们之间有一种默契，一个眼神，一句“老样子”，老板手下便有了分寸。老鑫的那碗面，老板撒芫荽时手抖得格外大方，蒜泥却只点了指甲盖那么大一点。端到我面前时，那碗面，绿是绿，红是红，白是白，看着就让人心里安稳。<br\/><br\/> 我尝了一口，味道实在丰富。这汤，竟有几分河南胡辣汤的风致，稠厚，麻辣，味道醇正，一点没有清汤寡水的意思。而拌面的手法，又有点像武汉的热干面，要把每一根面条都均匀地裹上调料和汤汁，拌匀了，让味道吃进面里去。一口下去，先是汤的浓香，紧接着是面条的韧劲，再细细咀嚼，又能品出牛肉的鲜甜和蔬菜的清香。各种味道在嘴里打架，最后又奇妙地融合在一起，熨帖得五脏六腑都舒坦了。<br\/><br\/> 老鑫一边呼噜呼噜地吃，一边跟我絮叨：“你看，咱们阆中这地方，地处川北，挨着陕西，靠着甘肃，自古就是水陆要冲，南北客商来来往往，口味也就杂了。这牛肉面，就是南北交融的产物。汤是北方的浓汤路子，面是南方的精细讲究，调料又是四川本地的鲜香。你说它像什么？谁也说不清。但它就是好吃得紧。”<br\/><br\/> 我点点头，心里也明白了几分。饮食，终究是文化的影子。阆中这座古城，三面环水，一面靠山，风水好，历史也厚。三国时的张飞曾在此镇守七年，留下了许多传说；后来历朝历代，又有各色人等在此定居。各种文化在这里沉淀、发酵，最后都浓缩到了这碗市井的面条里。它不张扬，不精致，甚至有些粗犷，但有那种混杂的、厚实的、充满生活气息的味道。<br\/><br\/> 吃完一碗，额头上渗出细密的汗，浑身暖洋洋的。我看着店里那些埋头吃面的人，他们大多是本地人，脸上带着一种满足的神情，仿佛这一天的开始，有了这碗面，就有了底气。老鑫说，那些外出的游子，无论是打工的，还是上学的，在外经商的，回到家乡的第一件事就是先来碗牛肉面。只要闻到这个味儿，魂儿就回来了。<br\/><br\/> 离开时，车子驶离古城，嘉陵江渐渐远去。我摇下车窗，晨风带着水汽吹进来，我忽然又回味起那碗牛肉面的滋味。那滋味，让我想起古城里那些明清时期的木质建筑，想起贡院里莘莘学子的足迹，想起锦屏山上苍翠的松柏，想起华光楼上远眺的落日余晖……所有这些，似乎都被那碗其貌不扬的面条给收拢了，浓缩了。那是一种混合着历史、地理和人情的味道，对于懂它的人来说，记挂这一碗，便是怀抱故乡。<br\/><br\/><\/p>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <\/div>\r\n <\/div>\r\n \r\n <div class=\"dzb-multi-btn-box\">\r\n <p class=\"dzb-multi-zoomOut dzb-multi-btn-hover\"><a href=\"javascript:;\"><img src=\"\/dianzibao\/images\/btn_A.png\"\n\n alt=\"\">放大<\/a><\/p>\n\n<p class=\"dzb-multi-zoomIn dzb-multi-btn-hover hide\"><a href=\"javascript:;\"><img 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